Iglesia de los Santos Juanes (Sant Joan del Mercat)

Standing directly opposite the Silk Exchange and a step from the bustle of the Central Market, the Church of Santos Juanes, also known as Sant Joan del Mercat, is one of those temples many people walk past without going in. Its main facade, conceived as a great stone altarpiece on a terrace overlooking the square, forms with the Lonja one of the most photographed corners of the city. The real treasure is inside, only just recovered after years of work.

History

Gothic in origin, the church was built from the 13th century onward and over time became one of Spain's major Baroque ensembles. Its vault was covered with 350 square metres of frescoes by Antonio Palomino, alongside stuccoes and sculptures by Lombard masters. The Civil War badly damaged the paintings, which then waited decades for a restoration worthy of them.

The great restoration

In 2025 the church reopened after five years of work driven by the Hortensia Herrero Foundation and the Archdiocese, with an investment of around 8.2 million euros under the direction of Professor Pilar Roig (UPV). The result restores Palomino's splendour and adds an audiovisual show that explains the vault.

What to see and practical tips

Note the sealed oculus on the facade, known as la O de Sant Joan, a relic of the old Gothic rose window. Atop the bell tower turns the pardal de Sant Joan, the neighbourhood's best-loved weathervane. Entry for worship is free; the extended cultural visit with the audiovisual has a separate ticket. It adjoins the market, so pair it with a mid-morning vermouth.

Curiosity: tradition holds that parents who abandoned their children in the square would ask them to look up at the tower's weathervane, so it would watch over them. If you come on a Sunday, chain it with the Lonja (free that morning) and the Valencian Sistine Chapel. More routes in our guide to València in 3 days.