La Bernarda

València — Ciutat Vella, inside Mercado de Tapinería (Calle Tapinería, next to Plaza de la Reina)

Inside the Mercado de Tapinería, just off Plaza de la Reina and a stone's throw from the Cathedral, La Bernarda is one of the market's two dining spaces and the one that sticks to old-school Valencian cooking: paella every single day plus a different rice dish that changes daily, from arròs del senyoret to arròs al forn. With a terrace on the pedestrian square and the classic esmorzaret of olives and peanuts, this is where valencianos actually have lunch, not a tourist rice menu.