Horchaterías de Valencia: where to drink horchata & fartons

For horchata de chufa with fartons in Valencia, the reliable choices are Santa Catalina and El Siglo in the old town, Daniel (with a terrace inside the Mercado de Colón), and the historic family shops in Alboraya, the village where the chufa is grown. Horchata is a cold, milky-white drink made from chufa, water and sugar, and that is what you dip the farton into.

What horchata actually is

Chufa is a small tuber, not a nut, despite the English name "tiger nut". It grows only in l'Horta Nord, mainly around Alboraya, and has its own regulatory council, the Denominación de Origen Chufa de Valencia. A proper horchata has three ingredients and nothing else: chufa, water and sugar. No milk, no lactose. If a shop sells it in odd flavours or a suspiciously bright white, be wary.

There is a legend every counter seems to tell: King Jaume I tasted the drink, asked what it was, was told "llet de xufa" (chufa milk), and replied "això no és llet, això és or, xata" (this is not milk, this is gold, dear). That, supposedly, is where the name comes from. It is probably not true, but it is a good story.

Natural or granizada: the difference

• Natural: liquid, freshly made, fridge-cold. The classic version, and the one that soaks a farton best.
• Granizada: half-frozen, with a crushed-ice texture. You eat it with a spoon, and it holds up better in the August heat.

Both come from the same horchata; only the temperature changes. The farton is a long, airy, sugar-coated bun made for dipping. The Polo brand created it in Alboraya around 1960, specifically to go with horchata.

The historic shops in the old town

On Plaza de Santa Catalina, a short walk from the cathedral, sit two shops with real history. Horchatería de Santa Catalina opened in 1830, founded by Vicente Gargallo, and still has its Manises tiles. It is touristy, no question, but Valencian families still bring their kids. A few steps away, El Siglo has been serving since 1836 in the same old-fashioned style.

Horchatería Daniel has been artisanal since 1949. Its founder, Daniel Tortajada, was one of the people who fought for the protected origin status. The main shop is in Alboraya, and there is a comfortable terrace inside the Mercado de Colón, a good option if you want a snack without leaving the centre.

Going out to Alboraya, where chufa is grown

For the full experience, take the metro to Alboraya. You will find the Avenida de la Horchata there, several family shops that have been at it for generations, and the fields where the chufa grows. In summer the town holds its horchata and chufa festival. The dates change each year, so check the live agenda before you go.

When and how to drink it

Horchata is a hot-weather drink: the high season runs from May to September, though the big shops stay open most of the year. The most Valencian habit is drinking it mid-afternoon, as a snack, with a couple of fartons. Order it properly cold and dip without holding back. To keep eating around the city, see the guide to what to eat in Valencia or the one on markets.

Frequently asked questions

What is Valencian horchata made of?

Chufa (a tuber, not a nut), water and sugar. No milk and no lactose. The good ones use chufa with the Valencia protected designation of origin.

What is the difference between natural and granizada horchata?

Natural is liquid and cold. Granizada is half-frozen, with an icy texture. It is the same horchata served two ways.

Where can I drink the best horchata in Valencia?

In the centre, Santa Catalina and El Siglo on Plaza de Santa Catalina, and Daniel's terrace in the Mercado de Colón. For the most authentic version, the family shops in Alboraya.

When is horchata in season?

Mainly in summer, May to September, although the historic horchaterías usually stay open for much of the year.

What are fartons?

Long, airy, sugar-coated buns made for dipping into horchata. The Polo brand invented them in Alboraya around 1960.