Markets of Valencia: which to visit and what to eat

Five markets in Valencia are worth your time. The Mercat Central handles the city's fresh produce, the Mercado de Colón is a modernista hall now full of cafes and gourmet stands, and then there are three old neighbourhood markets: Russafa, Mossén Sorell and the Cabanyal. Between them they cover the daily shopping for half the city, and they're the most honest way to see how Valencia actually eats.

Mercat Central, the big one

The project is dated 1914 and the building opened in 1928, the work of architects Soler March and Guardia Vial. It's textbook Valencian modernisme: iron, glass and ceramics under a central dome, topped by the well known parrot weathervane. Inside, more than 250 stalls sell fruit and vegetables from l'Horta, fish from the Lonja, meat, charcuterie, spices and salted fish. It opens Monday to Saturday mornings and closes on Sundays. To eat on the spot, head to Central Bar by Ricard Camarena, inside the market itself.

Mercado de Colón, for a coffee

Francisco Mora Berenguer designed it, and it stopped working as a food market decades ago. Today it's a hall of cafes, restaurants and gourmet stands in the Ensanche district. It's the go to spot for a horchata with fartons at Horchatería Daniel. Worth knowing: Valencian horchata is made from chufa (a tuber, the tiger nut), not almonds or rice. If you want to keep chasing it, see our guide to horchaterías in Valencia.

Neighbourhood markets: Russafa, Mossén Sorell, Cabanyal

For the real atmosphere, the neighbourhood markets win on character if not on architecture:

• Mercat de Russafa: fresh produce in one of the liveliest districts in town.
• Mercat de Mossén Sorell: small and local, in the Carmen quarter.
• Mercat del Cabanyal: by the sea, with fish landed that morning.

After the Cabanyal, a stop at Casa Montaña for tapas and tinned seafood rounds off the morning.

What to buy and what to try

• Oranges and vegetables from l'Horta.
• Bomba and senyoret rice, the base of a good arroz.
• Real saffron, not colouring, for paella.
• Salted fish: mojama, cured roe, barrel sardines.
• Horchata and fartons.

To eat paella after shopping, see where to eat the best paella. One warning for visitors: authentic Valencian paella contains no chorizo.

How to plan your visit

Markets run in the morning and close on Sundays, so keep your morning free for this. Always confirm hours on each market's official website, since they change on public holidays and during Fallas. If a food fair or special market falls during your stay, you'll find it on the live agenda. And to fit it into a wider plan, use our guide to what to do in Valencia.

Frequently asked questions

Which is the best market in Valencia to visit?

The Mercat Central for its size and architecture, and the Mercado de Colón if you want a drink in a modernista setting. For neighbourhood atmosphere, try Russafa or the Cabanyal.

What days are the markets of Valencia open?

As a rule they open Monday to Saturday in the morning and close on Sundays. Check each market's official website to be sure, especially around public holidays.

What is Valencian horchata made of?

Chufa (tiger nut), water and sugar. No almonds, no milk. It's served cold, often with fartons.

Is there an entrance fee?

No. Entry to any market is free, you only pay for what you buy or eat.