La Pilareta

València — El Mercat / El Carmen (Calle Moro Zeit)

Tucked into the heart of El Carmen, its tiled walls and zinc bar barely changed since it opened in 1917, La Pilareta is the classic address for clóchinas al vapor, a small native mussel only in season from mid-May to late August. Round that out with grilled cuttlefish, patatas bravas and fried anchovies, all in a tiny room that's packed at lunchtime. The place to taste old-school Valencia tapeo.